This is the easiest way of carrying a heavy swag, for one can rest one's
self by shifting the burden from one shoulder to the other. I strapped
my pannikin and a small axe about my waist, and thus equipped began to
ascend the valley, angry at having been misled by Chowbok, but determined
not to return till I was compelled to do so.
I crossed and recrossed the stream several times without difficulty, for
there were many good fords. At one o'clock I was at the foot of the
saddle; for four hours I mounted, the last two on the snow, where the
going was easier; by five, I was within ten minutes of the top, in a
state of excitement greater, I think, than I had ever known before. Ten
minutes more, and the cold air from the other side came rushing upon me.
A glance. I was _not_ on the main range.
Another glance. There was an awful river, muddy and horribly angry,
roaring over an immense river-bed, thousands of feet below me.
It went round to the westward, and I could see no farther up the valley,
save that there were enormous glaciers which must extend round the source
of the river, and from which it must spring.
Another glance, and then I remained motionless.
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